A real-world guide to what works best in the lab
Emulsifiers are essential for creating stable, effective skincare products. They allow oil and water to mix, forming smooth, consistent creams, lotions, and serums. However, not all emulsifiers are equal. Some are outdated, potentially irritating, or incompatible with modern clean beauty expectations.
This article outlines common emulsifiers that are best avoided, along with high-performing alternatives suitable for different product types and skin needs. It also includes practical guidance on usage percentages and formulation considerations.
Why Emulsifiers Matter
Emulsifiers stabilize emulsions by preventing the separation of water and oil. Beyond technical stability, they impact skin feel, absorption, and delivery of active ingredients. The wrong emulsifier can compromise product texture, cause breakouts, or reduce shelf life.
Choosing the right system is essential for developing skincare that is safe, effective, and sensorially appealing.
Emulsifiers to Phase Out
- TEA (Triethanolamine) and Carbomer Systems
- Concerns: TEA can form nitrosamines in the presence of nitrates, which are potential carcinogens. These systems are also sensitive to pH and long-term stability.
- Common in: Gels, lotions, and early-generation moisturizers.
- Better option: Natural non-amine emulsifiers with pH flexibility.
- PEG-100 Stearate
- Concerns: Derived from petroleum and may contain trace contaminants like 1,4-dioxane. Not biodegradable and often rejected by eco-certifications.
- Common in: Cream cleansers and facial moisturizers.
- Better option: Olivem 1000 or Cetearyl Glucoside blends.
- Polysorbate 60 and 80
- Concerns: Highly processed and not considered natural. May leave a film on the skin and alter product aesthetics.
- Common in: Body lotions and emulsified scrubs.
- Better option: Sugar-based or plant-based emulsifiers that match clean label expectations.
Emulsifiers to Use Instead
These alternatives are safe, versatile, and increasingly popular in both conventional and natural formulations.
- Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate)
- Source: Olive oil derivative
- Usage rate: 3 to 5 percent
- Skin types: Suitable for sensitive, dry, and barrier-compromised skin
- Notes: Forms liquid crystal emulsions that mimic the skin barrier. Provides a soft, luxurious feel without greasiness. Approved by Ecocert and COSMOS.
- Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside)
- Source: Sugar and coconut
- Usage rate: 2 to 4 percent
- Skin types: Ideal for dry, mature, and sensitive skin
- Notes: Creates lamellar structures that enhance moisturization. Offers creamy texture and long-term stability.
- Simulgreen 18-2 (Hydroxystearyl Alcohol and Hydroxystearyl Glucoside)
- Source: Vegetable origin
- Usage rate: 2 to 3 percent
- Skin types: Oily and acne-prone skin
- Notes: Lightweight and non-greasy. Excellent for gel creams and summer formulations.
- Emulsan II (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate)
- Source: Plant-based sugar and fatty acid ester
- Usage rate: 2 to 5 percent
- Skin types: Normal to dry
- Notes: Easy to use and compatible with a wide range of active ingredients. Delivers a smooth texture and reliable performance.
Skin Type and Emulsifier Compatibility
- For dry or mature skin, Montanov 68 is recommended due to its deep moisturization and structural properties.
- Sensitive skin responds well to Olivem 1000, which supports the barrier and is mild on application.
- Oily and acne-prone skin types benefit from Simulgreen 18-2, which is lightweight and fast absorbing.
- For normal skin, either Emulsan II or Olivem 1000 provides balance, stability, and a pleasant sensory feel.
Natural Does Not Always Mean Better
While natural emulsifiers are appealing, they can present challenges. Some, like lecithin or beeswax, may lack stability or require co-emulsifiers to be effective. Others are pH-dependent and may limit formulation flexibility.
The best practice is to combine natural primary emulsifiers with multifunctional co-emulsifiers to achieve the desired performance and shelf life.
A Brief History of Emulsifiers
Emulsifiers have been used in skincare since ancient times, with beeswax acting as an early emulsifying agent in ointments and creams. The industrial era introduced synthetic emulsifiers like PEGs and stearates, making large-scale emulsified products possible.
In recent years, the demand for sustainability and skin compatibility has driven a shift toward naturally derived emulsifiers. Modern options use sugar esters, amino acid derivatives, and olive oil compounds that offer superior skin feel and eco-certification.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right emulsifier is not just about stability. It is also about safety, performance, regulatory alignment, and consumer expectations. While legacy emulsifiers like TEA and PEG-100 stearate have been effective, they no longer meet the criteria for modern formulation standards.
With today’s range of natural and biodegradable options, it is possible to create products that are safe, stable, and luxurious. Whether formulating for sensitive skin or building a clean beauty line, the right emulsifier can elevate the product’s effectiveness and perception.
By selecting smarter emulsifier systems, brands can deliver high-performance skincare with integrity and innovation.
